Doxa is a Swiss watch brand that holds a legendary status in the history of professional dive watches. Known for its distinct cushion cases, vibrant orange dials, and double-bezel decompression tables, Doxa watches were designed in collaboration with military and commercial divers, including Jacques Cousteau, making them icons of underwater exploration.
Overview
Founded: 1889
Based in: Bienne, Switzerland
Typical Price Range: £900–£3,500 GBP
Known For: Sub 300, Sub 300T, Sub 200, Sub 600T
Website: doxawatches.com
Brand Story
Founded in 1889 by Georges Ducommun, Doxa initially gained fame for its patented 8-day movements used in automobiles and aircraft. In 1967, Doxa introduced the SUB 300, the first purpose-built commercial dive watch. The development team realized that underwater visibility was best with a bright orange dial, and they incorporated a patented bezel showing US Navy decompression limits. The watch was quickly adopted by Jacques Cousteau and became the official watch of the Swiss Elite Divers unit, securing its place in diving history.
Design Language
Doxa’s design language is instantly recognizable. The core SUB 300 models feature a cushion case, an offset small dial, a prominent minute hand (which is critical for diving), a dual-scale rotating bezel, and a bead-of-rice steel bracelet. The brand continues to embrace vibrant, historically-inspired colorways, including Professional (orange), Searambler (silver), Sharkhunter (black), Caribbean (blue), and Aquamarine.
Movements & Manufacturing
Doxa utilizes robust Swiss-made automatic movements, primarily sourced from Sellita (such as the SW200-1) and ETA. In their high-end models, Doxa uses COSC chronometer-certified calibres to ensure precision and reliability in professional diving environments.
Notable Models
Sub 300 Professional: The modern recreation of the 1967 original, featuring a thin case profile and a box sapphire crystal.
Sub 300T: A more robust, thicker iteration of the diver with a helium escape valve and 1,200m depth rating.
Sub 200: An entry-level vintage-style diver featuring a round case and clean, contemporary styling.
Why Enthusiasts Care
Doxa is not just another brand making vintage-style divers; they helped define what a modern dive watch is. Their historical importance, collaboration with Jacques Cousteau’s Aqua-Lung organization, and striking retro-cool aesthetics make Doxa a highly coveted brand for collectors of dive watches and ocean heritage.
Official Website
Featured Models
Sub 300 Professional
The Doxa Sub 300 Professional is the modern recreation of the legendary 1967 diver, featuring a signature orange dial, cushion case, and a chronometer movement.
