Serica is an independent French brand that has quickly become a darling of the enthusiast watch community. Known for its highly original, “neo-vintage” tool watches, Serica blends professional diving and field specifications with a sophisticated French design sensibility that avoids direct imitation of historical models.
Overview
Founded: 2019
Based in: Paris, France
Typical Price Range: $600–$2,000 USD
Known For: Neo-vintage tool watches, distinctive dial configurations, Bonklip-style bracelets, COSC-certified chronometers
Website: serica-watches.com
Brand Story
Serica was founded in 2019 by Jérôme Burgert and Gabriel Vachette, both prominent figures in the French watch media space. Drawing on years of reviewing and collecting vintage timepieces, they sought to create a brand that offered the emotional appeal of historic military and tool watches but with a completely unique modern design perspective. The brand debuted with the 4512 field watch and followed it with the highly successful 5303 dive watch, establishing Serica as a serious design house.
Design Language
Serica’s design language is defined by a refined, high-contrast aesthetic. Signature details include broad arrow hands, unique enamel-finished dials, off-center crowns, and asymmetric bezels. The brand is also known for pairing its watches with historical “Bonklip” ladder-style steel bracelets, providing a unique look and exceptional comfort. Many of their latest models are officially COSC-certified chronometers.
Movements & Manufacturing
Serica utilizes Swiss mechanical movements. The brand transitioned from STP movements to Soprod automatic movements (such as the M100 and Newton calibers) to power their collections, ensuring high reliability and performance. Assembly and Swiss-made quality assurance are handled by specialized partners in Switzerland.
Notable Models
5303 Diver (2021): A distinctive dive watch featuring a dual-scale ceramic/steel bezel, twisted lugs, and 300m water resistance.
6190 Field Chronometer (2023): A refined, ultra-slim field watch featuring a COSC-certified chronometer movement and polished step case.
8315 GMT Chronometre (2022): A traveler’s watch featuring a unique asymmetric day/night ceramic bezel and broad arrow hands.
Why Enthusiasts Care
Serica is highly valued by enthusiasts who seek original design rather than homages. Jérôme Burgert’s design choices are highly deliberate, focusing on light play, case proportions, and historical details. Their commitment to mechanical specifications, certified chronometer accuracy, and French elegance makes them one of the most exciting young brands in the watch industry.
