If I could never buy another watch again, and money was no object, I think I know the three I’d choose.
It is a slightly ridiculous question, of course. Watch collecting is built on the idea that there is always another watch. Another dial colour, another complication, another vintage reference, another piece you suddenly decide is “the one.”
But that is what makes the question interesting.
If you had to strip it all back and choose only three watches forever, you need range. You need something you can wear every day. You need something beautiful. And you need something that brings a completely different energy to the collection.
For me, the three would be the Rolex Explorer 36, the Grand Seiko SBGM221, and the Cartier Santos.
Rolex Explorer 36
If I had to pick one watch to wear every day for the rest of my life, this would probably be it.
The Rolex Explorer 36 is about as close as a watch gets to being effortless. It is simple, understated, and incredibly versatile. It works with jeans, a T-shirt, a jumper, a shirt, a jacket — basically everything.
And that is the real magic of it.
There are more complicated watches. There are more expensive watches. There are watches with more obvious status, more unusual designs, and more technical movements. But the Explorer has that rare quality where it never really feels wrong.
It is sporty without looking too aggressive. It is smart without feeling dressy. It is recognisable to watch people, but it does not shout across the room.
The 36mm size is a big part of the appeal too. It keeps the watch balanced, classic, and comfortable. In a world where a lot of watches try very hard to be noticed, the Explorer 36 feels confident enough not to.
That is why it would be my everyday watch forever.
Grand Seiko SBGM221
The second watch would be the Grand Seiko SBGM221.
This might be one of the most beautiful GMT watches ever made. The cream dial, the case shape, the polished surfaces, the blued GMT hand, the movement — it is just ridiculous.
What I love about this watch is that it feels luxurious without feeling obvious. It does not rely on hype. It does not need a famous bracelet or a loud design. It just wins you over slowly.
The dial is the star. That warm cream tone gives the watch a softness that you do not see very often. It feels vintage-inspired without being a straight vintage copy, and the finishing is exactly what people love about Grand Seiko.
Then there is the practicality of the GMT complication. Even if you are not constantly travelling, there is something romantic about a second time zone. It gives the watch a sense of movement and possibility.
The SBGM221 would be my elegant, slightly dressier, more thoughtful choice. The watch I would wear when I wanted something that felt special but not flashy.
Cartier Santos
And third, the Cartier Santos.
This is one of the oldest wristwatch designs in history, but somehow it still feels modern today.
That is not easy to do.
The Santos has a completely different personality from the Explorer and the Grand Seiko. It is more design-led, more elegant, and more instantly recognisable. The square case, the exposed screws, the Roman numerals — it has a look that could only really be Cartier.
It also brings something important to a three-watch collection: variety.
If the Explorer is the perfect everyday watch, and the Grand Seiko is the beautiful GMT, the Santos is the piece that changes the mood. It is sharper. More architectural. More stylish.
It is the sort of watch that makes a plain outfit look intentional.
And unlike some design icons, it is still genuinely wearable. It does not feel like a museum piece. It feels like a watch you can actually live with.
The Three-Watch Collection
So that is my money-no-object three-watch collection:
Rolex Explorer 36.
Grand Seiko SBGM221.
Cartier Santos.
A perfect everyday watch, a beautiful GMT, and a design icon.
Three watches forever.
What are you choosing?
