One of the biggest misconceptions about microbrand watches is that they use “cheap” or unreliable movements.
The truth? Most independents use the same Swiss and Japanese calibres found inside watches costing two, three, or even ten times more.
Let’s break down the movements powering today’s best microbrands — and what they mean for accuracy, service, and value.
The Heart of Every Microbrand Watch
A watch movement (also called a calibre) is the engine that drives timekeeping.
For microbrands, choosing the right movement is a balance of cost, reliability, availability, and brand identity.
Because most independents don’t manufacture in-house, they rely on proven suppliers — and that’s actually a good thing.
1. Seiko (Japan) — The Workhorse Choice
Popular calibres:
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NH35 / NH38 / NH70 – automatic, 21,600 bph, hacking & hand-winding
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VK64 / VK63 – meca-quartz hybrid chronograph
Why microbrands love them:
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Inexpensive, robust, and easy to service anywhere in the world.
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Dependable accuracy (±20–30 sec/day) and bulletproof reliability.
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Parts and watchmakers familiar with them are everywhere.
Examples: Lorier, Nodus, and Zelos all built their reputations on the NH35.
It’s not glamorous — it just works.
2. Miyota (Japan) — The Smooth Operator
Popular calibres:
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Miyota 9015 / 9039 – high-beat automatic (28,800 bph)
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Miyota 8215 / 8315 – entry-level automatic
Why brands choose it:
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Higher beat rate and thin profile allow slimmer, smoother watches.
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Excellent reliability with slightly finer finishing than Seiko’s NH series.
Examples: Baltic and Traska use Miyota 9039s for their thin, elegant divers and field watches.
3. Sellita (Switzerland) — The Swiss Standard
Popular calibres:
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SW200 / SW300 / SW500 – equivalents of ETA 2824, 2892, 7750
Why it matters:
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True Swiss-made credibility with tight tolerances.
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Easily regulated to chronometer accuracy (±4–6 sec/day).
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Great for microbrands aiming at mid-range or luxury-level finishing.
Examples: Christopher Ward, Formex, and Serica rely on Sellita for Swiss precision without Swatch-Group restrictions.
4. ETA (Switzerland) — The Original Workhorse
While ETA movements are now harder for small brands to source (since Swatch Group limits supply), some independents still manage to secure them through authorised partners or surplus stock.
The ETA 2824-2 and 2892-A2 remain industry icons — decades of proven reliability and easily serviceable worldwide.
5. STP, La Joux-Perret & Soprod — Boutique Swiss Alternatives
Smaller Swiss manufacturers like STP (Swiss Technology Production), La Joux-Perret, and Soprod have become popular with microbrands wanting something different from the usual Sellita or Miyota.
They offer Swiss pedigree, strong finishing, and sometimes extended power reserves (up to 68 hours).
6. Quartz & Meca-Quartz — Accuracy Without the Winding
Not every collector wants an automatic.
Quartz movements (battery-powered) are ultra-accurate, thin, and affordable — perfect for vintage-inspired chronographs and minimalist designs.
Popular choices:
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Seiko VK64 / VK67 meca-quartz (mechanical chronograph feel)
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Ronda 715 / 763 (Swiss quartz)
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Citizen Eco-Drive (solar, maintenance-free)
These movements let brands create slim, practical watches with the same design attention as mechanical pieces — often at half the price.
7. Microbrands Building Their Own
A few independents have started developing proprietary or modified calibres.
Brands like Horage, Furlan Marri (LJP), and Anordain collaborate with movement makers to add custom rotors, bridges, or finishing — bringing a touch of “in-house” character without full-scale manufacturing costs.
The Takeaway
Microbrands aren’t cutting corners — they’re choosing smart, serviceable movements that keep their watches affordable without compromising reliability.
So when you see “Powered by Seiko NH35” or “Automatic Sellita SW200” on a watch spec sheet, read it for what it is:
a sign that your watch uses the same engine trusted by brands selling for thousands.
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